After a brief stop at the Katshkhi Pillar, a hermitage monastery atop a 50-metre-high stone pillar, we head east and camp near Gori. The following day, we visit the ancient site of Uplisziche, an ancient rock-hewn town carved into the cliffs above the Mtkvari River. Dating back to the early Iron Age (around the 1st millennium BC), it played a crucial role as a political and religious centre in pre-Christian Kartli (Iberia), and later became a significant hub along the northern branch of the Silk Road. Uplisziche played a crucial role as a political and religious centre in pre-Christian Kartli (Iberia), later becoming a significant hub along the northern branch of the Silk Road. Its strategic location facilitated trade and cultural exchange between East and West, with caravans passing through its intricate network of caves, tunnels and temples. What was once a bustling town is now only inhabited by a large number of lizards. How quaint!
We drive further east and north of Tbilisi, heading into the Mtskheta-Mtianeti region. We spend a couple of days at various locations near the Zhinvali Reservoir. Our energy reserves are somewhat depleted. We have had a few setbacks recently. Among other things, we lost our wastewater tank without realising, and part of our kitchen was damaged. It’s also been extremely hot and humid recently, so we have tried to avoid cities like Gori and Tbilisi, heading instead towards the mountains. However, it will only get markedly colder in the next part of our trip when we head further north, almost to the Russian border.